Memorial

My wife sent me this, as a former Marine it made me cry.

Thank you Mr. Clemente for posting this.

Wink

We're hearing a lot today about big splashy memorial services.

I want a nationwide memorial service for Darrell "Shifty" Powers.

Shifty volunteered for the airborne in WWII and served with Easy Company of the 506th Parachute Infantry Regiment, part of the 101st Airborne Infantry. If you've seen Band of Brothers on HBO or the History Channel, you know Shifty. His character appears in all 10 episodes, and Shifty himself is interviewed in several of them.

I met Shifty in the Philadelphia airport several years ago. I didn't know who he was at the time. I just saw an elderly gentleman having trouble reading his ticket. I offered to help, assured him that he was at the right gate, and noticed the "Screaming Eagle", the symbol of the 101st Airborne, on his hat.

Making conversation, I asked him if he'd been in the 101st Airborne or if his son was serving. He said quietly that he had been in the 101st. I thanked him for his service, and then asked him when he served, and how many jumps he made.

Quietly and humbly, he said "Well, I guess I signed up in 1941 or so, and was in until sometime in 1945 . . . " at which point my heart skipped.

At that point, again, very humbly, he said "I made the 5 training jumps at Toccoa, and then jumped into Normandy . . . . do you know where Normandy is?" At this point my heart stopped.

I told him yes, I know exactly where Normandy was, and I know what D-Day was. At that point he said "I also made a second jump into Holland, into Arnhem." I was standing with a genuine war hero . . . . And then I realized that it was June, just after the anniversary of D-Day.

I asked Shifty if he was on his way back from France, and he said "Yes. And it's real sad because these days so few of the guys are left, and those that are, lots of them can't make the trip." My heart was in my throat and I didn't know what to say.

I helped Shifty get onto the plane and then realized he was back in Coach, while I was in First Class. I sent the flight attendant back to get him and said that I wanted to switch seats. When Shifty came forward, I got up out of the seat and told him I wanted him to have it, that I'd take his in coach.

He said "No, son, you enjoy that seat. Just knowing that there are still some who remember what we did and still care is enough to make an old man very happy." His eyes were filling up as he said it. And mine are brimming up now as I write this.

Shifty died on June 17 after fighting cancer.

There was no parade.

No big event in Staples Center.

No wall to wall back to back 24x7 news coverage.

No weeping fans on television.

And that's not right.

Let's give Shifty his own Memorial Service, online, in our own quiet way. Please forward this email to everyone you know. Especially to the veterans.

Rest in peace, Shifty.

"A nation without heroes is nothing."

Roberto Clemente

1.17ct E-VS1 video

So, seen any incredible diamonds lately? How about this one?? It is an incredible Crafted by Infinity Diamond. 1.17 E-VS1.

Enjoy the sparkle!



Wink

Crowning Glory

I thought you might enjoy this video of a particularly nice ring we recently finished.




Wink

Leaving for Antwerp

I will be going to Antwerp on June 15th courtesy of my diamond supplier, Infinity Diamonds.  I was selected as their retailer of the year for my outstanding contribution to the Infinity Brand and for my sales of their wonderful product.

 

I will be tweeting under the name HPDiamonds and adding a lot of videos to the blog as I travel.

 

Wink

Peer review of Cutting standards by AGS

Here is part of the continuing conversation about cutting going on the Polygon site. This is the response to a gentleman stating that Tolkowski had the advantage of peer review when he wrote his thesis on diamond cutting in the early 1900's.

Turns out that the AGS had extensive peer review, even if they did not make a lot of noise about it!

Wink

Bill, I hate to correct you on this, but you are wrong. As
you know I chaired the Gemological Sciences Committee during
the time we were coming up with the cut grade system for the
AGS Laboratory. Let me tell you about peer involvement and
review.

First, the chairman of the committee has a Ph.D. in
inorganic chemistry with an extensive background in research
at the university level (just happens to be me).

Second, the committee consisted of jewelers with scientific
backgrounds, cutters, retailers, suppliers, lab people, etc.

Third, in keeping with scientific protocol we approached the
problem from two standpoints-theoretical and experimental.

Fourth, our experimental work was guided by a Ph.D. in
optics who heads up optical research at one of our nations
finest universities.

Fifth, our theoretical work was carried out by a team of
scientists from a foreign university well known for work in
this field.

Sixth, also in keeping with scientific protocol for
acceptance of scientific developments and material for
publication we employed a peer reviewer to look over the
shoulders of what the other two groups were doing(augmented
by work done by employees of the AGS Laboratory). We were
adamant that no system would be implemented until such time
as the peer reviewer put in writing that our science was
impeccable and that we were clear, from a scientific
standpoint, to go public. That peer reviewer was a
distinguished professor in optics at a different university
and editor of a major journal in that field.

Seventh, so much for the science. What all that yielded was
mountains of paperwork with both theoretical calculations
and actual measurements on the behavior of light in crystal
systems. The results were made graphic in contour diagrams
that showed the different dimensions and angles that
represented the maximum return of light, taking into
consideration a multitude of environmental factors. Now,
here's the kicker, during the years we studied those
experimental/theoretical diagrams, one person on the
committee kept reminding us over and over again with
statements like, "yes, that particular configuration does
seem to handle light better than others, BUT will that stone
appear to be beautiful to the eye."

I should also point out that it took the committee several
years to arrive at the AGS cut grading standards.

One amazing discovery came out of all that work. After all
the science is applied to the system, when one looks at the
areas on the contour diagram where light seems to be handled
best, right in the center of that area sits Mr. Tolkowsky's
ideal cut.
What all this leads to is the circumstance that when a
jeweler is getting ready to show a customer a diamond that
has the AGS triple zero designation, and even before the
paper is opened, he can be assured that the diamond has been
cut to the most exacting of geometric proportions and that
it will be beautiful to look at.

Perhaps others on this board with knowledge of how the other
laboratories arrived at their cut grading standards would be
willing to share that with the rest of us.

Chris Bramlett

A discussion about H & A cutting

This is one of the best dissertations I have ever seen on the term Hearts and Arrows. It was made by a friend of mine, John Pollard and it was his second ever post on Polygon. Even the professionals who post there were impressed with what he had to say, and I offer it to you for your reading pleasure.

You can see our selection of fine Hearts and Arrows quality cut diamonds at Hearts and arrows cut diamonds.

Enjoy the read, it is a good one.

Wink



Quoted from http://www.polygon.net/cgi/en/Desktop.ViewDiscussionChannelsFull/DocSearchParams.Paging.PageNumber=1/DocSearchParams.Paging.ResultsPerPage=500/DocSearchParams.UpdateLastVisitedDate=true:

I don't like the term "H&A" because it's been turned into a
gimmick. I prefer the term cut precision, since that's what
is necessary to acquire the "H&A" pattern in rounds (other
patterns appear in different shapes); the facets aligning so
precisely with their opposites that the reflections overlap
when seen in reflective viewers.

From a production standpoint it's best to get your
priorities straight:

1. Just because a diamond shows the "H&A" pattern (no matter
how precise) does not mean it has premium light performance.
Light performance is far more important for appeal. If I
had only two diamonds, an AGS Ideal (performance) without
strict H&A...and a diamond cut to H&A precision with
geometry that did not produce top light performance...I
would certainly elect the one with top light performance as
a "better" diamond in terms of appeal (not cut precision).
Fortunately these days you will usually (not always) find
that "H&A" diamonds have pretty good c/p angles. This
is simply evolution.

2. In diamonds with top light performance the benefits of
precise cut precision ("H&A) in rounds are contrast and
consistency in performance. Cut precision increases
contrast between light & dark areas, appealing to the
natural edge detection hard-wired into human physiology,
strengthening intensity and evaluated in our top systems as
"contrast brilliance" (AGS) or "pattern" (GIA). For those
who have not read the landmark paper in last September's
"Optical Engineering" it's fantastic. Coupled with
appropriate table, c/p angles and lower halves the net
effect is intensity in scintillation as well as broader
spectral flares (an issue of taste of course). These
effects are maximized in near-Tolkowsky configurations but
if the lower halves are too short, or the table too large
the diamond can take on too much obscuration (AGS) or
obstruction (GIA) - penalized in those systems. On the
other hand, some people prefer the random look of asymmetry
over precise H&A diamonds, just as others prefer other
shapes. Diamond beauty is always subject to taste.

3. Diamonds with a level of optical symmetry 'close to' what
purists consider H&A can mimic the optical effects... As
our evaluative devices and cutting equipment have improved
over the last decade there are diamonds produced with
better-than-average optical symmetry that are simply a
by-product of blocking to top proportions sets; what some
cutters call a "happy accident." This is where controversy
reigns: Diamonds displaying the highest levels of optical
symmetry; those crafted to the top levels of cut precision
and the original Japanese standards for supersymmetry
on-purpose, are valued by enthusiasts and collectors for
their ultimate craftsmanship, as much as any effects on
performance... This is no different than people who value
IF for rarity, not a tangible visible difference over lower
clarities.

It's unfortunate that there is no authoritative definition
of how tight cut precision must be in order for a diamond to
be officially called "H&A." Every dealer or manufacturer is
defining them by his/her own standards. Dealers who
don't have access to rarified top cut precision will define
the "happy accident" stones they can get as "H&A" (looky
looky). The purists band their steins on the bar and cry
foul. This causes confusion for consumers. With no
concrete definition the situation is akin to sellers in the
early 1900s inventing their own "A" and "AAA" grades for
color to one-up the guy next door. Until the GIA set forth
standards for color and clarity it was chaotic...as it is
for "H&A" dealers today. Logically, the purists take great
pride in the fine-make craftsmanship they respect and value
- as they should, it's remarkable work! But the purists are
far rarer than those willing to "make a buck" by turning H&A
into a gimmick. People selling "whatever" under that label
are diluting what could be a really cool niche product.

In a perfect world I think H&A marketing would focus on top
light performance as the priority, amplifying the optical
benefits (which can be a taste factor) and rarity in cut
quality (the most precisely cut H&A diamonds are rarer in
terms of cut precision than D is in terms of color). To me
the finest H&A diamonds are a subsection of round brilliant
- for which we have several successful makes whether you're
talking 60/60, near-Tolk, high-crowned or antique cuts
which were predecessors to the modern RB. People are going
to like different looks and some will have a taste for one
round over another, just as others may like squares or
fancies. Different strokes for different folks. There's
enough business out there for all of us - if you can find
out what makes your customer tick.

John Pollard

Blogging Course

A friend of mine from whom I have taken some meaningful courses has just decided to write a blogging course and is offering free copies of it to those of us who post about it on our blogs.

Since it is obvious that I need help with my blog I am going to share this information with you.

I'm evaluating a multi-media course on blogging from the folks at Simpleology. For a while, they're letting you snag it for free if you post about it on your blog.

It covers:

• The best blogging techniques.
• How to get traffic to your blog.
• How to turn your blog into money.

I'll let you know what I think once I've had a chance to check it out. Meanwhile, go grab yours while it's still free.

Seems pretty cool to me, so here it is, and I hope you enjoy it.

Wink

How to Tell Quality Jewelry from Cheap Imitations Chapter 5

Milgrain

Milgrain should be straight and even, not wavy and uneven. Here is a picture of what it should look like.



Bezels

Bezels are generally pretty easy to judge. They should be smooth and not wavy. They are sometimes hard to photograph well due to the reflections and the way that the light plays over them. What looks like a small burble at 2 o’clock is actually where the reflection of the ceiling light stops.




Conclusion

We have looked at many quality issues in this report, how to judge the weight and heft of a ring, the finish, the prongs and their many issues, what makes a quality channel set, bezels and milgrain.

Obviously there is more. It is important to the long term satisfaction of a piece that you take the time to inspect your purchase and ask questions. Oftentimes jewelry is purchased with a first impression, heart reaction. To enjoy your jewelry for years to come and see it as a treasure for a lifetime, take the time to carefully inspect it prior to purchase with these things in mind. You will be far ahead of the average shopper in determining if the jewelry you are looking at is of high or low quality. If you find problems, give the jeweler or manufacturer the opportunity to make it right. Remember, mistakes do happen and many can be repaired easily if being done by someone used to dealing in quality. However, a poorly made piece is something no quality bench or reputable jeweler wants to revisit. Be an alert, discriminating shopper.

Enjoy your shopping.

Wink Jones

How to Tell Quality Jewelry from Cheap Imitations Chapter 4

Channels

Channels should be even, with straight lines and nice crisp corners. There should be no waviness to the line of the channel. The stones should be close to one another, but not actually touching girdle to girdle unless they are square or rectangular cut. Round diamonds that are actually touching are a recipe for chipping at the contact points. They should look to the eye as if they are very close to one another or even like they are touching, but they should not actually be touching. A big problem when one stone is jammed slightly overlapping another is this requires tilting one or both stones and is very likely to result in chipping of one or both stones with wear.


Good channel work







In the above pictures notice the straight sharp edges of the channel, the slight gap between the round cut diamonds and the absence of a gap between the princess cut diamonds.

If you look closely you can also see the sharp square corners at the bottom of the channel in the ring with the princess cut diamonds.

In the pictures on the next page you will see some rings that were NOT as nicely done.







Poor Channel Work:











And the UGLY!

The following ring was incredibly poorly done. This ring ended up being completely remade by a different craftsman. This ring is a perfect example of all the “little” things that can go wrong with a good design. It is important to ask a jeweler about their system of quality control. This ring was actually delivered to a customer. It came from a source indifferent about quality control both from the bench that made it and the jeweler who sold it to the client who brought it in to us for appraisal.



Next is one of the worst rings I have ever seen. We had a bench that wanted to do some work for us, so they sent us this piece. Needless to say, they never did any work for us.

It does not pertain to channel setting, but it is a “Perfect Storm” of monumental screw-ups that are worthy of being seen just for the “knowledge” that this “stuff” is out there.



Just to aid your recognition. The problems of this ring start with the entire shank being wavy and not straight; the bead set diamonds are not set evenly; the center stone is set crookedly from the top and at a tilt from the side; they used a round head for the square stone, letting the head be visible from the top; and it has the ever present porosity and poor finish that is often seen on lower quality rings.

How to Tell Quality Jewelry from Cheap Imitations Chapter 3

Prongs

Prongs are another thing to check. They may be difficult to see in photos. It is something worth looking at up close, either at the store or when you receive your ring. You may want to invest in an inexpensive loupe to look at prongs, or if at a store, use theirs. (By the way, any store that will not let you use their loupe is probably a good store to leave.)

You want to look for several things when looking at prongs. One, they should be nice and thick in proportion to the stone that they are holding. The prongs need to be properly cut to provide a good seat for the stone. That is to say, they should nestle up to the stone without large gaps. The seat must not be too big or too small, and the cut must not extend too far into the prong, or the whole tip of the prong is at risk for popping off and allowing the stone to go free. Here is a picture that depicts both proper and improper seating.




Check too to ascertain that the stone is actually set straight. Hold the ring perpendicular to the girdle of the stone and look to see that the stone is level with the ring from both front and side angles. While a small variance may be acceptable because stones are set by hand not a laser guided machine, a large variance is not acceptable. Look for side view photos whenever possible.

Here is an example of a difficult setting job - three stones, each needing to be set at a different angle, by hand. While the visual look is perfect, it is possible to see a slight variance on the angle of the two outside stones. This variance was deemed acceptable to all concerned as the visual affect of the ring is stunning.










Lastly, prongs should sit flush with the top of the stone, without leaving a gap to catch hair or snag fine knits and silk items. This ring was sent back to the bench for repair. Mistakes are going to be part of the fact of every day life. Catching those mistakes and making prompt repair is an indicator of the mark of a good jeweler. We do our best to catch and fix any mistakes and take our bench to task when necessary. Jewelers who ignore or deny their mistakes or are unwilling to repair them may be someone you would be best off not using.